February 4, 2012

Breaking in Your Baseball Glove

LEXOL CONDITIONER 200ML 12For much of North America — particularly in the colder climates — the baseball season is right around the corner. That means it’s time to pull your baseball glove out of the closet and get it ready for the upcoming season — or buy a new one and start breaking it in.

There are at least a dozen ways to break in your baseball mitt, some of them bordering on insanity. Players have been known to soak their gloves in a bucket of water, bake them in ovens and microwaves, and drive over them with their cars. In addition, there’s a lot of opinions regarding what to use to help condition the leather — from neats foot oil to shaving cream to aloe vera.

Today we’re going to learn the correct way to break in a glove. Correct as in the time-honored method that has been most successful in breaking in a baseball mitt for the long haul. Unfortunately, you won’t be dazzled by the process — it’s pretty simple and straightforward.

Are you sitting down? Are you ready? Here it goes:

Play catch with it.

That’s it — put the glove on your hand and play catch with it. Most of the gloves you buy today are “presoftened”; in other words, they’re made with a softer type of leather or the leather has been processed in such a way that they’re ready to use within just a few sessions of playing catch. The more you use it, the more it will form to your hand and become comfortable. Today’s presoftened gloves do not need to have any oils, creams, or other additives applied to it.

On the other hand, if you have purchased one of the “old school” mitts — meaning the type that is not presoftened — then the process is slightly different. Before you use it, you may want to treat the entire surface, most importantly the strings, to a very light coat of Lexol. No water, no shaving cream, no oils — just a bit of Lexol.

Water will dry out a leather glove. Would you go out into the rain in your leather jacket? Of course not. Would you treat leather boots with something before wearing? Yes, and you should treat a leather glove no differently — keep it away from water. The only time your glove should see water is when you are playing a game or practice, and it just happens to rain. But rainfall won’t do too much damage to your glove if you first treat it with a good conditioner such as Lexol.

Additionally, stay away from “glove oils” (such as Rawlings’ Glovolium), mineral oil, neat’s foot oil, mink oil, and all other oils. Putting oil in your glove will soften it, but it will also make your glove heavy. It will also darken the color of your glove, which may or may not be a big deal to you. Plus, if you put too much oil on your glove, it will not only become heavy but it will also get too flimsy. If you like a flimsy, heavy glove, then go ahead and oil away, but most players prefer their glove to be lighter and stiffer. Pliable is probably a better word — but pliable is stiffer than flimsy.

Although many swear by shaving cream — myself included, for many years — nearly all the shaving creams and foams you find on the market today include a good dose of alcohol, which is a definite no-no for leather. Alcohol will dry out the leather in your glove, and in time weaken the strings. Many years ago most shaving creams included lanolin, which is a nice, light grease that by itself is a good choice as a leather conditioner. However even the modern shaving creams that do include lanolin have so little of it, it doesn’t help your glove, and any amount it does have is erased by the damaging alcohol content.

Which brings us to Lexol. At this point you might be wondering if I sell the stuff, or if I own stock in the company. Well, neither is true (though if you click on the picture and end up buying a bottle from Amazon, you’ll help pay the server fees to keep this site running!). The fact is, you must look at your baseball glove as not just baseball equipment, but as an investment in leather. In other words, your mitt should be placed in the same category as a pair of fine leather shoes, leather gloves, leather hat, leather jacket, or leather bag. You want to treat all your leather belongings with a conditioner that will keep it pliable and protected, without adding too much weight. That said, it makes sense to trust a company that has invested millions of dollars researching the best conditioner of leather — and one of those companies is Lexol.

Unlike Rawlings, Lexol has nothing to do with baseball equipment. In fact, they do not sell any items made from leather. Their company exists for the express purpose of developing and selling the best treatments, softeners and conditioners for leather goods. There’s great value in a company that has such a focused, and passionate niche. Think about it — does Rawlings (or Wilson, or any other glove company, for that matter) have any motivation to sell you a product that will prolong the use of your glove? Of course not. If they had their druthers, they’d like for you to buy a brand new glove from them every year. So why would they spend much effort or money to develop a glove oil that will prevent you from buying a new glove for several years?

That’s not to say that Glovolium or other “glove oils” are purposely made to rot your glove out faster. But the fact is, glove companies are in the business of making and selling gloves — not in preserving them. So it makes more sense to buy a glove treatment from someone who is in the business of preserving leather, doesn’t it?

Believe me, Lexol isn’t the only trustworthy leather treatment company out there. But it’s the one that I know, and have used, for the last ten years. As I’ve mentioned before, I’ve been playing baseball for over 25 years, and yes I’ve tried shaving cream, mink oil, the water bucket, Glovolium, olive oil, and just about every other material that you’ve heard of. Trust me on this one: the best thing for your glove is a substance made by a company focused on keeping leather looking and feeling new.

So, what you do is get the smallest bottle of Lexol you can find, because you only need to use maybe 1/8 of a cup or less at a time. They’re often sold by independent shoemakers / shoe repair stores, but if you can’t find it you can click on the image to the right of this article and get it from Amazon. Again, I’m not a salesman, so if you want to learn more about its ingredients and why Lexol is a better alternative for your glove, you can read about it here. You may notice there is a spray bottle, which I don’t recommend because you have less control of how much of the stuff is going onto the glove. You’re better off pouring a little at a time onto a clean rag and then rubbing it all over the glove and the lacing. Remember, a LIGHT coat, applied once. (You can apply it again halfway through the season or more often if you live in a hotter, drier climate.)

After you’ve applied the Lexol, go out and play catch. When you’re not playing catch, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS store your mitt with a baseball in the pocket — otherwise your glove will take the shape of a pancake. While you’re breaking it in, you may want to keep it closed with a rubber band or something — I use a folded-up bandana and tie it around with the ball inside. Some people also put the glove under their mattress at night, but I’m not sure that does anything more than give you a backache. As long as it’s tied up with the ball inside, the pocket should take form without any compression applied.
Akadema Mitt Masher
If it’s too cold out to play catch, and/or you’re in a hurry to get your glove broken in, you can always slam a ball into the pocket, over and over. Similarly you can also buy one of these nifty devices, called a Mitt Masher. As you might guess, you simply slam the ball part of the masher into the glove to help form the pocket.

So that’s it — no ovens, car tires, water buckets, or exotic animal oils. Just a little bit of Lexol and lots of playing catch. A presoftened mitt should be ready for game use in three or four days, and an “old school” baseball glove will take about 2-3 weeks — unless it’s a catcher’s glove, which could take the bulk of a season (for that reason, a catcher should always have one “game” glove, and a newer “practice” glove that’s used for bullpens) — but more on that in a future post.

Catching: How to Frame

Nearly every young catcher I meet is either proud to show me how well he can “frame” a pitch, or he wants to know how to do it.

So here I will teach all about framing, for the masses who do not have the pleasure to learn from me. However, you may be unhappy with what I have to say.

The best way to “frame” a pitch is to catch the ball where it is pitched — and don’t move!

That’s right — no turning the wrist, moving the body, or otherwise “easing” the ball into the strike zone. Just catch it and “stick it” (meaning, hold it there — “sticking” is a term stolen from gymnastics, to describe a gymnast holding his/her form at the end of an exercise).

While you may on occasion run into an umpire who will call strikes when you pull a pitch into the strike zone, the better umpires — which you will hopefully see as you reach more advanced levels — will be wise to your ways and nearly always call “ball” when they see you move your mitt.

The best thing you can do as a catcher to help your pitcher — and the umpire — is to catch the proper half of the ball (left, right, or top) with soft hands and HOLD your mitt exactly where you catch the ball. Even if it’s an inch or two out of the strike zone, just HOLD IT THERE. Give the umpire a good one- or two-second look at where the ball is. By doing this you are putting coins in the umpire�s trust bank; little by little he will trust you and where you receive the ball. Build up this trust over the course of a game, and maybe — just maybe — you will be able to ever so slightly ease a pitch an inch or two over to the left or right and into the zone.

So I lied, sort of. There is an art to framing a pitch into the strike zone, but it is an advanced skill, and one that should be used sparingly — like once or twice a game at most. And actually you “frame” more with a lateral, subtle move of your body than with the glove. The problem with learning to frame is that most young catchers (old ones too — watch Mike Piazza) will try to pull nearly every ball into the strike zone. This only irritates the umpire and causes him to eventually disregard the end of the ball’s flight.

Rather than try to force pitches into the strike zone, a better plan is to attempt to catch the ball when it passes through the strike zone. Coach Dave Weaver uses a term I like; he says “beat the ball to the spot”. Again, this isn’t something you can do on every pitch — unless you have a guy like Tom Glavine who is always around the plate. Most pitches will move a bit — to the left, right, or vertically — and sometimes you might be able to catch the ball just as it’s passing through the strike zone. At times this is early, so you need to reach out to get it, while other times you will need to keep the glove back and receive the ball deeper, after it breaks. We’re talking a matter of inches here, not feet, and your ability to decipher whether to reach or wait will come with experience — both your own and your time with a particular pitcher.

Try it next time you’re catching a pitcher in practice. Pay close attention to the movement on that pitcher’s pitches, and learn to anticipate its mild breaks. Try to figure out ahead of time where the ball is going to pass through the strike zone and “beat it” to that spot with your glove. Remember to keep soft hands, and make gradual movements — as opposed to jerking at the last second to snatch the ball. Receive the ball and hold it, so the umpire can take a picture of it. The umpire will thank you — and so will your pitcher.

Establish Your Fastballs

Whenever I start working with a young pitcher – the first thing I ask is “what pitches do you throw?”. Invariably, — be he a 12-year-old Little Leaguer or a 22-year-old college hurler — the pitcher claims to throw at least three or four pitches in addition to “a fastball”.

Without going any further, let’s clear up a few issues. Just because you think you know how to throw a particular pitch, does not mean it should be part of your repertoire. Too often a pitcher tells me he throws a curve, a changeup, a splitfinger, a knuckle-curve, a sidearm curve, and a cutter, yet when that pitcher gets on a mound, he can’t throw any of these “pitches” for consistent strikes. If you’re not throwing a pitch for strikes at least 75-80% of the time in practice, then don’t bring it into the game.

Furthermore, no one who calls himself a pitcher should throw only one fastball. Unless you are a knuckleball pitcher, your fastballs are your most important weapons, and you should establish at least two or three in your repertoire.

First, of course, is the straight fastball, also known as the “four-seam” fastball or “four-seamer”. It’s thrown by loosely gripping the ball across the widest seams and releasing with a straight snap down of the wrist. This is the fastball you throw most often in practice, as you use it to get your mechanics in order. If your grip and release are correct, and your mechanics are good, you should be able to throw this pitch for strikes with your eyes closed — literally. If you can’t, then there is likely a problem with your mechanics, and it will be easy to figure out the issue by isolating a few checkpoints in your motion (more on that in another post).

The second fastball you throw should be a two-seam fastball, preferably either a “down and in” or a “down and out”. This is a fastball that rides (or “runs”) down toward the ground and either in toward a righthanded batter’s hands or away from a righthanded batter. (We use a righthanded pitcher and a righthanded batter as a standard frame of reference; thus a “down and away” fastball from a righthanded pitcher will actually move in toward a lefty hitter.)

A “down and in” or “down and away” can take anywhere from 5 minutes to half an hour to teach. However, it can take a few weeks of consistent practice to really learn. We’ll go over these fastballs in a future article; the point today is that you should learn at least one if not both of these fastballs before moving on to another pitch.

Another fastball to consider learning — after you’ve commanded at least the four-seamer, a two-seamer, and a changeup — is a rising fastball. Pitchers who throw at good velocity for their level of play (50+ MPH at Little League, 75+MPH in high school, 85+MPH in college), will find it beneficial to throw a rising fastball after they learn a change-up. Essentially, it is a four-seamer, but thrown to a higher target. With practice, you can get it to appear to rise, and makes for a good 0-2 or 1-2 pitch to hitters that like to “climb the ladder”.

Once you have established at least three fastballs in your repertoire, you can compete in a game at any level, at least for a few innings. Add a change-up to your arsenal of command, and you will have enough to dominate hitters most of the time. Understand that “establish” or “command”, means that you can locate a pitch where you want consistently — meaning at least 75% of the time.

So again, for those looking to “add another pitch”, stop looking. Instead, evaluate what you’re currently throwing, and ask yourself these questions: “do I truly command these pitches? Can I spot a fastball where I want, anytime I want, with movement? Can I throw a four-seamer for a strike with my eyes closed?” After you’ve honestly answered “yes” to all three, then consider adding another pitch to your repertoire.

Check back here in the coming weeks to learn how to throw various fastballs.

The Slider

There are many people who believe the slider is the most deadly weapon in a pitcher’s arsenal. In fact, Ted Williams — the last Major League hitter to bat .400 and arguably the “Greatest Hitter Who Ever Lived” — once told a young Sparky Lyle to throw the slider because, to quote Lyle: “Ted Williams told me the slider was the one pitch he couldn’t hit.”

Indeed, a good slider can be quite an effective pitch, and the aforementioned Lyle made an entire career — including a Cy Young Award — depending almost exclusively on that one pitch.

However, I’m going to tell you today, that if you are under the age of twenty, do not add it to your repertoire. If you are over 20 years old, and you have good command of your fastballs and a changeup, and you are having trouble with developing a curveball, then consider the slider, but use it sparingly.

The problem with the slider is that pitchers, pitching coaches, and managers fall in love with it, and want to throw it all the time, in all situations, and often want to throw it for strikes. However, the slider is not meant to be thrown for strikes, and therefore is not a pitch to be used regularly. The purpose of a slider is to convince the batter a fastball is coming, and get him to swing and miss it, or at worst allow him to get just a piece of the ball and ground out or pop up weakly to an infielder. An effective slider is all about the element of surprise, and is one of the few “trick” pitches that can induce a strikeout at a critical moment in the game.

Unfortunately, what happens is a pitcher throws a decent slider early in the game, gets a strikeout, and then continues to use the pitch over and over, to nearly every batter, throughout the course of the game. After it is thrown a few times every inning (or to every batter), it loses its element of surprise; the batters start looking out for it. Worse, if a pitcher is throwing it often, then he probably is trying to get it in the strike zone a good portion of the time. What’s wrong with that? Well, a good slider breaks very late, and breaks down and out of the strike zone.

In order to throw it for a strike, the pitcher has to release the slider a little earlier, which starts it on a higher plane, which in turn nullifies the possibility of a late break and usually eliminates the down break. In effect, he throws a flat slider (also known as a fat slider, because it is a fat pitch for the batter): it breaks sideways, on a mostly even plane. When a pitch breaks sideways, the batter has a much easier time meeting the ball with his bat, as the arc of the swing is on a similar plane of the pitch. Since a flat slider comes in on a level plane, and is by nature a few MPH slower than a fastball, a good hitter should crush the pitch for an extra-base hit.

Another major issue with throwing too many sliders is the toll it takes on the arm, particularly on the elbow. Ever wonder how it is that these days, so many college and professional pitchers need Tommy John surgery? You would think that with the advances in medicine, training, and overall knowledge of pitching mechanics, that people wouldn’t be hurting their arms. However, it seems that every pitcher above Little League is throwing sliders 30-50% of the time, and this pitch puts a tremendous strain on the tiny, fragile tendons in and around the elbow. Even if you throw the pitch with perfect mechanics, you will probably at least strain the tendons a bit. If you throw the pitch with imperfect form, you’ll put even more of a strain on the tendons and the ligaments, and eventually tear something.

If the slider is so bad for your arm, and not effective as a pitch for strikes, why are so many kids throwing it? Simple: because it is an easy pitch to learn, and a pitcher can fool enough poor hitters to be moderately successful. Look at the Major Leagues today and you will see a remarkable number of pitchers who throw the slider as their primary breaking pitch; you should also take note of the fact that 90% of these pitchers are only moderately successful, and that Major League Pitching as a whole is at the worst level of skill and performance in the history of baseball. All of these pitchers learned a slider because it was a shortcut; it was a lot easier to pick up a slider than it was to develop a good overhand curveball. Or, it was quicker to throw a mediocre slider that got a lot of weak batters to swing and miss, than it was to learn how to make a fastball move enough to jam even the best hitters. Sliders are a shortcut for ineffective, lazy pitchers.
Pitching coaches love to see batters swing and miss; too many think this is the core goal of a pitcher. And there is no doubt that even a mediocre slider will cause 60-80% of batters to swing and miss, most of the time. However, a good hitter will recognize a bad slider, and if given the opportunity, will mash it over the fence. Eventually, even the poor hitters will realize what’s coming — the good hitters will tell them about that bright red dot — and they’ll hit it too. The very best pitchers, at every level, learn that 1.) command of the fastballs and the changeup are paramount to success; 2.) being efficient with your pitches is a better strategy than trying to strike everyone out; and 3.) the overhand curveball is the best breaking pitch, because it can be thrown for strikes and it can induce ground balls.

If you must have a slider in your repertoire, use it wisely. It should be aimed at the outside corner (opposite of your throwing hand), out of the strike zone and down. In fact, the ideal target for the pitch is the catcher’s right foot (for a righthanded pitcher), with the catcher situated so that his belly-button is directly lined up with the black on the outside corner of the plate. At most, you should throw it five times a game in a nine-inning contest, and used most frequently on two-strike counts, in situations where you absolutely, positively, must get a strikeout. Used appropriately, it can be a very effective weapon in your pocket, to pull out every once in a while. Overused, it will eventually be hit hard, and put undue stress on your arm.

Before you try to throw a slider,? learn how to move your fastball in, out, and down, and develop a change-up that dives down to the right and down to the left. It’s boring, I know, but if you can truly command those pitches you’ll never need a slider to be successful — even at the Major League level.

Pitching is Balance

Balance is the most important aspect of pitching. Without balance, there is no control. Without control, there are no strikes. Without strikes, there is no pitching. That said, a pitcher’s first goal — especially a beginning pitcher — should be to have balance from his first movement to his release.

Beginning the motion in balance is easy enough: stand straight up. When working from the full windup, make a small step backward and maintain your balance. This is the point where many neophytes make their first mistake, by stepping slightly (or fully) to the side, and/or by stepping too far. Either of these movements will throw your balance off. So again: step directly back and just a few inches. A good rule of thumb (or toe) is to step straight back behind the rubber, with your toe just barely brushing the back of the rubber.

The purpose of stepping back is to firmly plant your pivot/push foot. Step back just enough so that you can maneuver your pivot foot (right foot for righthanders, left foot for lefties) in a comfortable spot against the rubber. Once that foot is planted, pivot your hips and lift your opposite knee up toward your chest and above your pivot knee. Notice I stated “lift your knee” and not “lift your foot”. Lifting your foot, or “kicking” will put the wrong visual into a pitcher’s head, and possibly throw the body out of balance. Although many people might call this part of the motion the “kick”, I avoid that term because of the possibility of imbalance. Instead, call it the “knee lift”; it gives a more positive visual.

The knee should be lifted as high as you possibly can while still maintaining balance. You should be able to hold yourself in position for 5-10 seconds. If you can’t, then you need to either work on your balance or lift your knee lower. Generally speaking, the higher you can lift your knee (in balance), the more power you will generate. So, a pitcher should work on keeping his balance while getting his knee as high as he possibly can.

Luckily, this is a fairly easy action to accomplish. All it takes is standing on one leg. Do two drills: (1) lift your knee as you would in your motion and hold, and (2) standing straight with your arms crossed over you chest, lift your weak (left for righties, right for lefties) foot back behind the same knee, so that your heel is almost touching your hamstring. Do these drills with your eyes open and your eyes closed, and hold the position for as long as you can. Count as you hold, and make goals (for example, start with 5 seconds, work up to 10, then 15, then 20). You can do balance drills anywhere: at home, in an elevator, on a subway car, on a bus, wherever (a buses and trains are fantastic places for advanced drills, if you don’t mind people looking at you like you’re crazy).

Once you have accomplished great balance with your knee lift, it will be very easy to stride in balance, and thus release the ball in balance … and the result should be more strikes. In fact, a pitcher with very good balance should be able to throw strikes with his eyes closed — literally. Try it for yourself: after working on your balance for a few weeks, try, from the stretch position, pitching with your eyes closed. If you’ve achieved proper balance, you may surprise yourself by throwing perfect strikes.

Pitch Counts

One of the greatest, most illogical blasphemies occurring at all levels of baseball is the notion of limiting the pitch count.

Don’t get me wrong, I do believe that a pitcher’s pitches in a game should be counted, and that the count can help a manager decide whether it’s time to pull a guy out. What confounds me are two major issues: the 100-pitch limit and conditioning athletes to stay within that limit.

For the first hundred years of baseball, the term “pitch count” did not exist. Every game, a team would have their best available pitcher for the day start the game, and keep throwing until he was pooped. Starters were expected to also finish, and even the #3 and #4 men in the rotation would go at least to the seventh inning, guaranteed. (Oh, and by the way, NO ONE used a 5-man rotation until the 1970s.) Through the years, thousands of pitchers threw and threw and threw, many for 250 or 300 innnings or more in? a season. And they did it without the benefit of today’s medicine (and drugs).

In the late 1960s, Mets’ manager Gil Hodges started counting pitcher’s pitches. It was unheard of at the time, but it was a good idea. Unfortunately, somewhere between that idea and today, a whole lot of “experts” decided that no pitcher should throw more than 100 pitches in a game, and today no starting pitcher is expected to go beyond the sixth inning.

Despite the geniuses coming up with these asinine, unfounded rules, we still have pitchers injuring their arms, and to me, arm injuries seem a lot more common than before. I’m convinced it’s because pitchers don’t pitch enough.

There is no reason a healthy young man, with good mechanics, throwing fastballs the majority of the time, can’t throw 140-160 pitches per game — especially with four days’ rest between starts. However, the key is to condition the pitcher to reach that plateau. It can’t be done immediately; a sound throwing program will build up to that goal over an 8-10 week period. But, once a pitcher builds up to that level, and maintains the conditioning program throughout the season, he should breeze through 150 pitches or more during? a game, without tiring.

Check back soon, as I’ll post a typical program to reach this level.

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